| Jan 26, 2006 - Moreno Galcier & El Calafate, Argentina (again)
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 | | show all 33 | | View from the bus on the way to Moreno Glacier | | Another view from the bus | | First look at the glacier | | |
| We got back into El Calafate on the night of the 25th, this time checked into the hostel with camping in the backyard, had some dinner and went to bed.
The day of the 26th was our trip to the Moreno Glacier, one of the main tourist attractions in Patagonia since it does not require any strenuous activity to visit it. This entire section of the continent was once a large glacier or icecap that slowly receeded however many millions or thousands of years ago or whatever. The glaciers that are still around today are the remnants of this once massive beast, and thus we have Parque Nacional de los Glaciares, or Glacier National Park. While not the largest in this region, Moreno is still quite huge. Its biggest draw though comes from the fact that it is one of, if not the fastest moving glacier in the world, and one of the only ones still advancing. The Moreno Glacier is surrounded on three sides by mountains, and its front face sits in the large tourquoise Lago Argentino. Therefore, as the ice gets pushed foward, the front face touching the wamer water and most exposed to the air gets heated, and large slabs of ice break free from the glacier and coming crashing down to the water in a thunderous roar. It is a very impressive spectacle to behold, and since Moreno moves so quickly, this happens frequently and constantly every day. Other than just viewing the glacier, witnessing these ice falls, sometimes the size of a house or larger, is why so many people are drawn here. Everyone stands around with their camera ready cheering on the glacier to give them something photo-worthy. I was never lucky enough to catch one of the big falls in action, but Tanner did so hopefully I can get a copy of that photos some day. See the thing is, although there is a series of wooden catwalks and viewing platforms that seem to take you right up to the glacier, you are actually still quite far away. The 200-foot high and 5km wide ice wall of the face framed by even larger mountains make for a decieving depth perspective. And since sound travels slower than light, by the time you actually hear a crash and look over to it, all you see is the splash of the ice hitting the water and maybe some ofthe aftershock smaller avalanches. With luck however, you see the whole process from the beginning because you just happen to be looking in that direction, and then you are treated to quite a show.
We took a tour that brought us past the viewing walkways at first, and on a 30-45 minute walk along the north face of the glacier first to get a different perspective. This walk ends at the main viewing platforms, and then we have some more time to explore the area on our own. For those interested there is a boat that takes you out for an even closer look at the glacier, but since it costs extra none of us took that option. We wrapped up with the glacier around 3pm and were back in town by 5. If any of you are more interested in this glacier I'm sure there are tons of websites devoted to it, with one that I found quickly being
http://www.patagonia-argentina.com/i/andina/glaciares/perito.htm.
Back in El Calafate we took care of some final business things, and then enjoyed the first night in a while that we had to just relax and hang out. John and Carmin treated themselves to an all-you-can-eat Argentine barbeque buffet, while Tanner, Brian, Dan, and I cooked up our own feast of steaks, sausages, and sauteed veggies. Well, actually they did the cooking, I just kept the glasses full and helped with the eating. But it was a team effort none the less. The next morning was a struggle to pack up and get to our 8am bus, but we pulled it off and were on our way back into Chile.
I'll close with a quote from Lonely Planet's description of the glacier:
"Few glaciers on earth can match the activity and excitement of the blue-hued Moreno Glacier. Its 60m jagged ice-peaks sheer off and crash-land with huge splashes and thunderous rifle-cracks, birthing small tidal waves and large bobbing icebergs - while your neck hairs rise a-tingling" |
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