| Nov 8, 2005 - Huanchaco, Peru
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 | | show all 63 | | Huanchaco Beach | | Beach again | | Chan Chan sign | | |
| Huanchaco is the coastal beach town about 20 minutes northwest of Trujillo, but I'm getting ahead of myself.
I took today to visit a few different ruins sites around Trujillo, and as a day where I could actually wake up and go to sleep in (somewhat) the same place without taking a major bus ride in between.
So I got up and headed out first to Huaca de la Luna and Huaca de la Sol. This translates more or less to Temples of the Sun and Moon. These are two maginificently impressive and old pyramid structures that were actually constucted in the 1st century AD, and they are still at leat partly in tact! The most incredible aspect of these ruins is that they were/are made enitrely of mud by theMoche, an ancient civilization that numbered over 600,000 from 0-700AD. The Huaca de la Sol is now closed two the public because it is crumbling and very sensitive, but in its time was the largest manmade structure in the Western Hemisphere, at over 45m high (roughly 140ft). However, the Huaca de la Luna is open to the public for tours, so I took a combi (mini-van type public transportation) out to the site, and an english-speaking guide and tour of the site is included in the entry price. What I found most interesting about this site is that is actually 5 temples in one. The entire structure was made over the course of 500-600 years, and consists of one temple being built over the earlier preexisting one. This was amazing to see in person and in context. The Moche would have a temple in place, and when it was time for renovations, they would simply fill in all the rooms and sides with their typical mud bricks so they would have a new floor and starting point. The main walls would be added on and continued upward and outward, so that the most basic aspects of the architecture would remain constant, but it allowed for new variations on the layout. They also had these traditional and religiously symbolic paintaings on the walls, which turned from black and white to color using clay paints as the new layers of each temple were made, and the art, while still depicting the same things and deities, would become more intricate and complex with each generation. The fact that each temple was filled in and covered in these mud bricks mens they were preserved very well, and now certain areas are excavated so you can see the examples of the different layers having been built on top of each other. With each layer that was buil up, it also extended out, so you can think of it as new pyramidal shells being placed on top of each other, or a Russian Doll of Moon Temples if you like that better. There was a place of black rocks where human sacrifices took place, an altr where the priests performed blessings and other rituals, and an outer wall of the 5th layer that has different paintaings on each layer with different meanings. You could also see Huaca de la Sol, 1500ft away from the top of this temple which made for some good photos. Ironically enough, this ancient temple and its excavation project actually has a website, so you can check it out at www.huacadelaluna.org.pe.
The other ruins I visited that day are called Chan Chan, and even more impressive and amazing. Chan Chan was actually a whole city constructed entirely of mud (adobe) by the Chimu people, whose civilization eventually ended when they surrendered to the Incas in 1411. The city of Chan Chan is the largest mud city in the world, whose walls enclosed an area of about 28 square kilometers, while the Chimu Kingdom stretched for over 1,000km along the coast of South America. (sidenote: 1.6km = 1mile, your welcome). The site of Chan Chan is located about half-way along the main raod linking Trujillo and Huanchaco. I went to explore the site by myself since I didn't want to hire a guide, and also didn't want to be rushed through on a timed tour. So to get to the central site you walk for about 15 minutes off the main road down a gravel road. I didn't know much at all about the site since I didn't have a guide, so I though what I saw was going to be the extent of the site, and already I was blown away. As far as the eye could see extending into the desert where the remains of what were once 30 foot high walls of mud which made up this city. It was such a surreal experience, looking back in time at these wierd formations jutting out of the earth, which now resemble not much more than a tall straight pile of sand. The best way I cn think to describ it is to compare it to the Badlands of South Dakota, if you have ever been there. A vast flat expansive piece of land, with similar-looking outcroppings all over the place. Except that these outcroppings, which resemble in form those of the Badlands, are not natural but were all made by man over half a century ago. Then, after finally reaching the entrance gate to the main site I walk through a small doorway to find that an entire palace compound complete with statues, plazas, rooms, walls, and hallways has remained in tact and preserved except for whatever served as the roofs and ceilings. This compound was called the Ciudadela de Tschudi. It took almost 2 hours o walk all through these ruins, which were made up of labyrinth like hallways with walls that linked the different rooms and plazas two each other. I kept thinking I had to have come to the end, and then would round a corner to reveal another breath-taking view. I was literally gasping and shaking my head in disbelief with every turn. Remember, everything you see in the pictures is nothing more than mud! Needless to say, I was very impressed, and I am so glad I decided to take this day to visit these sites and ruins.
Since I was at Chan Chan late in the day close to closing time, there were not many other people there. However, walking through the site at about the same time and pace as me was a group of about 25 8-year-old girls on a field trip with their teacher, some parents, and a guide. This was a very funny experience which only added to my day. I would be in one opening or room, and they would enter behind me and all scream and wave and run to say hi or talk to me (once they realized I spoke Spanish). Then I would go to leave, while they were geting an explanation from their guide, and they would all shout and wave goodbye. Of course 5 minutes later they would follow up behind me into the next area, and every time we caught up to each other this process was repeated. But they were very cute, and eventually all were taking their pictures with me, and even asking for my autograph. We both finished with the ruins at about the same time, and I said goodby to them and to their male counterparts that I only met at out by their bus. But then when their school bus passed me walking back out to the main road, they stopped and insisted on giving me a ride. So I got on the bus to wild chorus of cheers and applause and we spoke for just a minute more. At the main road they stopped to let me off, assuming that I was staying in Trujillo, and I had assumed that they were heading back to Trujillo as well. But when we realized that I was actually staying in a hostal in Huanchaco for the night, and that there tour of the area was continuing on to view Huanchaco beach, I stayed on the bus with them for the rest of the 15 minutes and actually got a ride in the school bus all the way to my hostal.
It was a tiring but very enjoyable and educational day, and the school tour at the end was just a perfect comical touch, and actually some welcome company after a long day solo. I got to my hostal, walked the street along the beach searching some food, and found an amazingly delicious dinner of fresh seafood and rice. |
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